In 1993, I co-founded RAW with Ann Kelly, a label that came before SONG+KELLY. The concept behind RAW was to create a collection of easy, minimalist separates using naturally dyed silks and raw silk yarns. At that time, the minimalist design movement was in full swing, and I found myself totally absorbed into its simple, clean aesthetics—an intentional departure from the excesses of the 1980s.
The designs were understated, monochromatic, and refined. Every detail, from the exterior to the interior, was carefully considered. I was particularly focused on achieving a clean finish, so much so that many of the pieces could be worn inside out. The use of untreated, naturally dyed fabrics was also central to the collection. The raw silk, for instance, hadn't gone through the degumming process that gives silk its typical sheen, resulting in a matte, almost unprocessed look. In many ways, the collection was ahead of its time, embracing natural fabrics and thoughtful production long before sustainable fashion became mainstream or marketed as such.
RAW was sold at Isetan in 1993, and I recall feeling a sense of pride in the uniqueness of the collection. Interestingly, in 1999, Donna Karan launched her PURE label, which echoed many of the same principles. Perhaps, RAW will return.
Model was Celia Teh; photographed by Mark Law.
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